Find out what is the history behind the Peacoat, why we went for a Peacoat design and how we made it! (and a little surprise for you at the end…)
A pea coat (or pea jacket, pilot jacket, reefer jacket) is an outer coat, generally of a navy-coloured heavy wool. Pea coats are characterized by short length, broad lapels, double-breasted fronts, often large wooden, metal or plastic buttons.
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Originally designed for “reefers,” sailors who climbed up the riggings of sailing ships. That’s also why some people, still called it a “reefer coat.”
The standard for historical pea coats was 30 ounces (approx. 850 g) wool, most often made of heavy Melton cloth. Presently coats are made from 22–32 oz (620–910 g) wool.
It all comes down to the fabric…
The term pea coat might originated from the Dutch or West Frisian word pijjekker or pijjakker, in which pij referred to the type of cloth used, a coarse kind of twilled blue cloth with a nap on one side (Marine’s Mirror – 1975 edition).
As structured, the peacoat hits a nice middle. It’s longer than a jacket, and thus covers the backside, but it’s also short enough to climb and move about in.
And here it comes the eternal challenge for a tall girl:
Would a tall girl ever find a Peacoat that REALLY IS long enough to cover the backside?!
Here you find it! The Elegantia Peacoat measures between 78 to 83 cm (depending on size) at the centre back! We also have lengthen the sleeves to accomodate the extra beauty of our arms up to 74 cm!
We thought of a more minimalistic and versatile version of peacoat when designing the Elegantia.
– Ekene Pruce, Designer
Today the style is considered a classic, and pea coats are now worn by all manner of individuals. A classic feature of the peacoat is the distinctive, oversized collar. This gives the coat a slightly dressy esthetic, but there’s a wonderful practical advantage behind the design, described in the Navy regulations as a “convertible” collar. The collar on the peacoat was designed, and designed well, to serve sailors exposed to the inevitable cold and open winds at sea.
We completely reinvented the cut of the Peacoat with less seams possible. For example, we eliminated the side seam! You are only going to find a small dart in the side… This styling choice creates a modern look and a flowing fitting.
– Claudia Marzotto, Product Manager
Wool is all you ever need, too. The melton wool of the peacoat is usually heavy, tight, and durable, keeping out cold, wind, and, if needed, even some rain. The peacoat is just wool, thread, and buttons. No fancy nylon, Gortex, Velcro, or even zippers.
How is our peacoat made?
With the Elegantia Peacoat we created a garment that can be use indoor and outdoor.
We made it very warm and soft using a thick, prime quality melton wool, made in Italy.
The Peacoat is only partially lined with a blend of viscose fabric, giving all the comfort and lightness desired. The inside is neatly finished with coloured binding, which is becoming the signature of Belle-Grande jackets.